Chasing After Jess

Today was a wonderful day on this amazing track, made even more memorable as we hit the 600km mark. The weather was fine and cool, and we set out early in the golden glow, mindful of the longer distance ahead.

Passing the cathedral, we were first in line at the bakery when it opened at 7am, leaving with a warm baguette fresh from the oven, a cheese quiche, and a chocolate chip cookie.

The first 8kms took us through rolling hills, picturesque vineyards, and fields of corn. As we get closer to Spain, the terrain has become flatter, drier, and hotter. Despite some initial muddy patches and a few hills, the perfect walking conditions made these hardly noticeable.

Before we knew it, we came upon a lovely donation rest area and enjoyed a drink along with our bakery goodies before setting off again. I had the baguette that I bought from the bakery, and it genuinely was the best bread I had ever had in my life.

The houses we passed were varied—some a mixture of red brick, limestone, and stone, others featuring oak beams and timber detailing, reflecting the local materials available at the time. There was a church along the way but fewer crosses to be found on this leg of the route.

Even though the sun was quite hot, a lovely cool breeze made for very pleasant hiking conditions. As I walked along the path, filled with a sense of awe at the beauty and tranquility of the open countryside, I felt immense gratitude for this extraordinary opportunity and privilege—just hitching on a backpack, stepping out, and being in the midst of all this.

I was sad thinking about how little time there is left on this incredible journey, and I even found myself dawdling a bit, as if I could somehow slow time itself and hold onto these moments longer. Before I knew it, we had reached the 16km mark and our lunch stop at a little cafe on the corner of the road.

The last 9 kilometers were an easy walk through fields of corn and shady forests. On the last stretch into town, we followed an old railway line and came upon a little pilgrim rest area where we could get another stamp for our credential. I have been super vigilant in trying to fill ours before we get to St Jean Pied De Port – it’s not going to happen at this rate lol.

By the time we reached Barcelonne-du-Gers, it was very hot, and as usual, the town was closed for the afternoon siesta. Our overnight stay was in an impressive French mansion, built in 1860 and still majestic, with beautiful rooms filled with flowers and lovely gardens with a pond where a tortoise basked in the sun. Our lovely hostess Florence, cooked us a beautiful dinner that we shared with fellow pilgrims in the adjacent Gîte. At dinner, we met a couple of pilgrims from Australia who showed us photos of themselves waist-deep in water yesterday on the flooded path, before seeking a lift themselves. After a lovely citrus tart for dessert, we climbed the spiral wooden staircase to our beautiful room in the attic for a peaceful night’s sleep.

The anticipation of reaching our final destination is bittersweet, as we cherish every step and every moment of this remarkable journey.

Jess x