Chasing After Jess

After a great night at the Best Western Hotel, we set out early under grey skies, with rain threatening. We crossed the ancient stone bridge and climbed steep, narrow rock-carved steps, which was tricky but rewarded us with amazing views from the ridge.

The hiking conditions were perfect, and we made good time on the rolling country tracks with a cool wind and sunshine later in the morning. The track was lined with pine needles and pine cones and was still rocky in spots. We saw a mix of old and new architecture among the lush farms and forests.

The long climb into the sleepy town of Labastide-Marnhac led us to a corner pub with an interesting collection of old radios and a gramophone. We stopped for lunch and met Herman, a retired electronics engineer and seasoned pilgrim from Cape Town. His backpack showed signs of at least five previous Caminos. After a pleasant chat and sharing stories, we set off for the last leg of our day to the small town of Lascabanes.

In Lascabanes, we were welcomed by a local resident, also a seasoned pilgrim, for a friendly chat and snack at La P’tite Pause, a pilgrim hub in the centre of town. As I turned the corner with the cafe in sight, all I heard him yell was “BONJOUR! BIENVENUE!” And this kind man did this welcome for every single pilgrim who walked past while we were there.

Our Gite for the night was located slightly off the GR65, and our host offered to pick us up in his retro car that he was very proud of. While we waited for him, I ordered a pizza at the snack bar.

It was there that we met Darn, another retired pilgrim from George, South Africa, who gave us good advice for the path ahead. We also met Thomas, who had started his pilgrimage from his home in the Black Forest Germany, already covering hundreds of kilometers. We chatted away in the warm sunshine while waiting for our delightful Gîte owner, David, to collect us in his 1974 Citroen. With four people and three loaded backpacks in the small car, it was a miracle we made it up into the hills to our beautiful home for the night.

Our Gite, “Clos de Gamal” was stunning. We had a private room in a lovely stone cottage on a vineyard, with a swimming pool and a gourmet dinner to look forward to. It was a perfect end to another amazing day on this pilgrims track.

Dinner was a fun social event, led by an impressive Parisienne lady who spoke great English. Two other travelers at the table, both from Montreal & Quebec in Canada, also spoke good English, making it easy to chat with the other French pilgrims. The meal was delicious—bean and potato soup, lasagna, salad, and chocolate cake, along with local cheeses and wine from the vineyard. We had yet another comfortable night, loving the journey we are on and not wanting it to end.

Jess