Chasing After Jess

We slept like babies overnight and allowed ourselves a late start this morning, not in a rush to leave our comfortable B&B. Remarkably, I had no aches and pains from yesterday’s lengthy hike, and no foot issues or blisters either. I need to give a shout-out to my Darn Tough socks, from the USA and not cheap, and Merrell hiking boots, with soles like tractor tyres. This combination has proven to be a winner for me, carrying me through nearly 600 kms and varied terrain without any foot problems. Last year when I walked the Camino Frances I was crippled with blisters and issues, so I am thankful for no pain and no blisters this year.

It was after 8 am by the time we left Montreal, and the day was already heating up. We spent the first 5 kms chatting with some ladies from Australia and relishing the sheer pleasure of the track. Once again, we were surrounded by fields of grain and vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see.

After about 9kms of easy hiking, we came upon a lovely self-service café in a local’s backyard, based on an honesty payment system. There was an excellent selection of freshly baked almond cakes, boiled eggs, drinks, nuts, fresh fruit, tea, and coffee. These gestures and trust really capture the essence and spirit of this ancient pilgrims’ way, and that of the people who find themselves on this path. Like yesterday, the drinking water was outside the cemetery gate, which got me thinking 🤔 about why the occupants of a cemetery would need drinking water. Maybe a research question for when I get home?

The last 8 kilometers were along a flat bicycle track flanked by forest which seemed endless. Of interest was the change in building materials, with red brick houses and wooden fences. As we neared our destination, the realization that this journey was nearing its end began to sink in, leaving me with mixed emotions. I had lots of time to think along this bike track. To be honest, I became a bit delirious – every time I looked up it was the same thing! Felt like being on a treadmill.

We reached Eauze in the early hours of the afternoon, too early to check in – but thankfully we were blessed with a large supermarket where I could buy all the many things I craved. For lunch I was able to buy a terriyaki chicken and rice bowl! Mum and I quickly visited Saint-Luperc Cathedral, and had lunch in the square before checking into our B&B. We also decided to book all of our accomodation right up until St Jean Pied de Port, the stress of leaving it to the last minute was no longer worth it to us! So we spent the afternoon planning our next steps.

At 3pm we were able to check in! We stayed in another comfy and cozy accomodation that I found on booking.com. It was nice to have our own space and own kitchen + washing machine to do some of our washing too!

Overall, it was a day of reflection and appreciation for this incredible journey. With only 10 days and 220 kms left, I’m starting to feel the bittersweet anticipation of its conclusion. It will take a lot of time yet to process the experience, and truth be told, I’m just not ready yet for the end.

Jess x