Chasing After Jess

On the morning of May 15th, under the grey & cold skies, we set out with excitement to begin our 750km hike from Le Puy en Velay to St Jean Pied de Port. The first leg of this journey was an ambitious 26km hike to St. Privat d’Allier.

The day started at 5am, we woke up super early to pack our backpacks and get ready for the day! We left just after 6am to make our way to the Cathedral in Le Puy en Velay for the pilgrims mass. The pilgrims mass is a bit of a must do moment on this route, where at the end they lift the floor of the church and you can walk with your backpack down the famous steps to begin your journey.

Despite the cold, the hour-long ceremony was a serene experience, highlighted by the beautiful chandeliers and stained glass windows. We are not catholic and we do not speak French, so although we got little out of this mass – we appreciated the beauty of the service and the singing.

Following the pilgrims’ blessings, we set out through the open gate in the cathedral floor around 8am. The initial kilometers were a steep climb in cold, rainy weather. Having done a long hike like this before, at a similar time of year – it was my goal to have my backpack as light as possible. However the weather forecast had other plans, and I thankfully added a puffer jacket, additional long sleeves and a waterproof jacket to my backpack.

After 9 kilometers of trudging through picturesque countryside, we reached the charming village of St. Christophe-sur-Dolaison. We paused for a much-needed snack and a coke zero at a cozy café. A quick stop two kilometers outside town for a final Coke rejuvenated us for the long journey still ahead.

Eight more kilometers, including another challenging ascent, led us to Monbonnet, a quaint hilltop village. We sought refuge from the rain in a welcoming bar, enjoying a refreshing drink. By 2 pm, we set off again in blustery weather for the final 7-kilometer stretch to St. Privat-d’Allier. Just when we thought we had seen it all, we were caught in a hailstorm on a mountain top. We took shelter in a nearby farm shed, joined by a wet border collie also seeking refuge.

Thankfully, the hail eventually subsided, and the sun emerged as we descended towards St. Privat. The last part of the trail was rugged, with rocky, steep, and muddy terrain challenging our legs and backs. After a grueling 8-hour journey, we finally arrived at La Cabourne gîte.

Here, we shared a room with Brendon, a semi-retired traveler from Perth. Our evening was filled with laughter as Brendon entertained us with his humour, stories and his 30 minute search for his silk liner on the first night!

Dinner at the Gîte was a lentil soup, sausage, potatoes, cheese, and dessert. We sat at a table with three fellow Australians from Hobart and Victoria, sharing stories as we reflected on the day’s challenges and triumphs.

Crawling into bed that night was the best feeling, feeling so much accomplishment but also taking some anti-inflammatory tablets knowing how sore I would be in the morning!

Jess